Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide lists professionally installed epoxy at about $4 to $10 per square foot nationally, or roughly $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage. Polyaspartic runs about $5 to $12 per square foot in HomeGuide's guide. Old paint removal, salt damage and crack repair add to the total, so we give a written price after seeing the floor.

It can be, if the slab is sound. Many older garages and basements here have been painted or patched before, and those layers have to be ground off for a coating to bond. If the slab has a moving crack or water coming in, we recommend fixing that first.

Kits sold at home centers cost about $200 to $700 according to HomeGuide, and HomeGuide notes water-based epoxy may need recoating every 3 to 5 years. Most kits rely on etching the floor with acid. A ground surface and a thicker system hold up much longer under winter brine and hot tires.

HomeGuide says 100% solids epoxy can take walking traffic after about 18 hours and reaches full cure in about 7 days. Polyaspartic systems reach full cure in about 24 to 48 hours. We give you times for your floor based on the product and the temperature.

Coatings need the slab and air warm enough to cure. In cold months we check slab temperature, may heat the space, and often use polyaspartic, which HomeGuide says can be applied across a much wider temperature range than epoxy. If conditions are wrong, we reschedule.

Yes. We work across the Tri-State Area, including East Dubuque, Galena and Elizabeth in Illinois and Platteville, Cuba City, Hazel Green and Potosi in Wisconsin. Call [PHONE] to check your town.

No. A coating can seal small cracks, but it is not a radon control system. Iowa HHS reports that 71.6% of Iowa homes test above the EPA action level, so test before you finish a basement and install mitigation if you need it.

HomeGuide's national range for a two-car garage is about $1,600 to $5,800 for epoxy and $2,000 to $6,900 for polyaspartic. Older Dubuque slabs often need more prep, such as grinding off old paint or repairing scaling near the door. We give a written price after seeing the floor.

It depends on the system and the temperature. HomeGuide says 100% solids epoxy reaches full cure in about 7 days, while polyaspartic reaches full cure in about 24 to 48 hours. We give you a specific time when the job is done.

A smooth, glossy floor can be slick when wet. Flake floors have texture built in, and we can add anti-slip grit to the topcoat on solid-color floors.

Usually the prep. Most kits use acid etching, which leaves weak or salt-contaminated concrete and old sealers in place, and hot tires then pull the thin coat up. A ground surface and a thicker system bond much better.

For a garage that sees salt and slush, flake floors usually look cleaner between washes and have more texture. Solid color floors look sleeker but show dust and salt film sooner. Both use the same prep.

HomeGuide lists installed epoxy at about $4 to $10 per square foot and polyaspartic at about $5 to $12. It lists flakes and custom colors as adding about $0.50 to $2.00 per square foot. Your quote depends on the slab and the system.

Chips that are fully set in the base coat and sealed under a clear topcoat stay put. Problems come from too thin a topcoat or from skipping the scrape step. We scrape and sand before sealing.

Yes, as long as the slab passes a moisture check. Partial broadcast is popular in basements because it looks lighter, and a moisture-tolerant primer can go under the base coat where readings are borderline.

Each has strengths. HomeGuide notes polyaspartic cures in 1 to 2 days and resists UV well, while epoxy builds a thicker coat per layer and costs a little less. A common choice is an epoxy base with a polyaspartic topcoat.

HomeGuide puts installed polyaspartic at about $5 to $12 per square foot, or about $2,000 to $6,900 for a two-car garage. Repairs and heavy prep can add $1 to $5 per square foot.

It has a much wider application range than epoxy. HomeGuide lists about -30°F to 140°F. We still check slab temperature and dew point on the day of the install.

HomeGuide does not consider it DIY-friendly. It sets up fast once mixed, so it has to be spread quickly and evenly in small batches.

HomeGuide lists basement epoxy at about $1,200 to $20,000 for 300 to 2,000 square feet, which works out to its $4 to $10 per square foot range. Metallic finishes cost more. Moisture treatment and paint removal can add to the total.

Light moisture vapor can often be handled with a moisture-tolerant primer. If water is actually coming in, that needs a drainage or waterproofing fix first, or the coating will lift.

The coating itself does not change the slab temperature much. Many people add rugs in seating areas and keep the coated floor in laundry rooms, workshops and walkways.

Yes. Iowa HHS reports 71.6% of Iowa homes are above the EPA action level. A coating is not a radon system, so test first and plan any mitigation before the floor goes in.

ArmorGarage's cost guide lists professional commercial and industrial epoxy at about $7 to $15 per square foot. Thickness, chemical exposure, repairs and phasing move the price within that range.

Usually, yes. We can work in sections, over weekends, or use fast-curing polyaspartic topcoats so areas reopen sooner.

A thick, well-bonded system on ground concrete handles forklifts well. Turning areas and dock edges get the most wear, so we build those thicker and rebuild broken joints first.

Yes. Detached shops and pole barns around Dubuque County and the Tri-State Area get the same heavier systems as commercial floors.

Yes, once the cracks are filled and ground flush. Stable cracks are filled with rigid filler. Cracks that may move slightly get a flexible product, and a hairline line may show through over time.

HomeGuide lists crack filling at about $0.50 to $3 per linear foot. Scaling that covers large areas may call for resurfacing at about $3 to $5 per square foot for a garage or basement floor.

HomeGuide notes cracks wider than about 1/4 inch can point to foundation issues. Cracks that keep growing, slabs that heave, or edges that are offset should be checked by a structural engineer first.

Yes. We grind away the loose surface and rebuild it with repair mortar or a resurfacer. Sealing the floor afterward keeps brine out so the damage does not return as quickly.